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7:00 pm in the
Carrier room (Church Street entrance) of the
As the program director I have taken license to make up a title for
Wilbur’s talk. So he might change it a bit at the time. But I’m
pretty certain he will cover everything above and maybe even the ugly. Keith White, Program Chairman ALL VISITORS WELCOME |
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Calendar of Events
April 9, 2008: Wilbur Bluhm, 'Trees of Distinction For Your Home
and Garden'
Here is an article from
Kathy Lintault about Scotland 2008. The Scottish Rhododendron Society and the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh
are hosting the 2008 International Rhododendron Conference: 50 Years of
Modern Day Exploration, Conservation, and Hybridizing. A pre-conference
tour of gardens in southwest Scotland and the English Lake District runs
from May 3—6, followed by the Edinburgh conference full of lectures,
tours, and special events from May 7—11, 2008. Visit the Scottish
Rhododendron Society web site for more information. http://scottishrhodos.co.uk/Conference08.html
RETURN
to CONTENTS RETURN to CONTENTS Coming in 2008 Sales/Shows in
the Pacific Northwest April 12, 10 am to 3 pm, Fraser South Chapter Annual Plant Sale and Truss Show. Langley United Church 5673 200th St., Langley BC. Plants for sale include: choice species, specialty rhododendrons & azaleas, specimen trees and companion plants. These plants have been grown locally by our members! Members will be on-hand to help you choose the right plant for your garden conditions. Contact: Mary Berg, email: warren_berg@telus.net April 17-18, Florence Rhododendron Festival and Siuslaw Chapter Show. April 19 - 22, Tacoma Chapter Spring Show, Entries accepted Apr 18 afternoon and Apr 19 morning. The Puyallup Fair, 110 9th Ave. S.W., Puyallup, WA. Admission: adults $8, youth (6-18 yrs) $6, 5 yrs and under free, parking free. Open show, all entries are accepted gratefully. Routinely have entries from Seattle and Portland area. Contact: Bill Brackman, email: myrnaandbill@aol.com |
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POTLUCK DIRECTIONS Just cross the
bridge into... isn’t that West Salem? |
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Merge onto
Marion St. bridge |
MINUTES OF THE MARCH 2008 MEETING
March 12, 2008
By their spottiness and inaccuracy you will be able to tell that these minutes
were not written by Mary Crofts. Mary had to miss the meeting to attend to the
needs of her grandchildren while their very pregnant mother was temporarily
sidelined.
A
pre-meeting note is that the Oyster Bar got us all through the chow line in good
time so we could all make it to our meeting for chit chat and elbow rubbing by
6:30 PM. The benefits of communication are remarkable.
For
those of you who do not know, many of us meet at 5 PM on the meeting day at the
Oyster Bar (door on the State Street side of the alley of the block between
Liberty and High Streets.) If you want to attend anew call Anne Gross so that
she can give the establishment (I can’t spell resturaunt) an estimate.
Wally
Reed kicked of the meeting at 7 PM with some announcements, some of which I did
not record because I forgot that I was filling in for Mary. (And perhaps because
I swilled that Guiness a little fast). So the brain and pen started recording
where Wally said that it would be great if all those of us who have e-mail would
sign up to receive our newsletters that way rather than snail mail. That would
save on printing and mailing expense and time and those who get theirs by e-mail
get more color pictures than the printed version. Sharon Leopold renewed her
offer to give a free plant to every party who switched.
The
meeting was well attended by guests, many of whom were acquaintances and
volunteers with our speaker. The all were introduced during the period of my
mental absence, but I do remember introducing myself to and welcoming Barbara
Roach (or is it Roche?).
Wally
asked that all who could volunteer to help at our annual plant sale and truss
show April 11, 12 and 13 (Fri-Sun). Please bring trusses and donate any extra
plants you may have. I am mulling over which babies I could bear to part with.
Contact Wally Reed or Bob Grasing .
We
need members to sign up to cover the gate at the Smith Garden. The Garden is
open every Saturday from 10 to 3 until the end of May. My guess is that they
really need us on April 5th because that is the day of the Portland
Chapter Early Show. I toured the garden last Saturday with daughter Erin. We
were both impressed and we picked up some fantastic rhodies, narcissus and
cyclamen at the plant sale there for very reasonable prices.
Wally
took a poll of those going to Scotland in May. Since most of the big spenders
will be going and because that conflicts with our May meeting, which is the Pot
luck, barbeque and plant auction meeting, Wally is considering making the May
get together Wednesday May 21 rather than the 14th. We still need a
venue. Our place would be good, but do I dare ask my wife after having been gone
for two weeks?
We
thank Dorothy and Don Patrick for providing the goodies and the Lundins for
providing the coffee and drinks. We also thank the Patricks for propagating and
providing all the wonderful plants on sale at the Smith Garden.
For
those of you considering going to the Tulsa, Oklahoma ARS annual meeting, sign
up now, please. The organizers have waived the late fees. The sign up is pretty
slim and they do need more attendees. I have reviewed the program and it seems
first class. I looked into air fares. Round trip from the Salem airport is $309
on Delta, leaving Salem at 1 PM and arriving Tulsa at 8:35 PM (stop over in Salt
Lake City), Returning flight departs Tulsa at O835 and arrives Salem 12:14 PM.
Flights daily both ways. I’d say that the air fare is so cheap that it is
almost free! The meeting kicks off the eve of Wed April 16 and ends at noon on
Sunday the 20th. I am very tempted!
The
bulk of the meeting was the wonderful presentation: “Development of Bush’s
Pasture Park Garden and the Deepwood Estate Garden” By Gretchen Carnaby. To
summarize, Gretchen gave us the history of the development of these gardens and
their rehabilitation since the early 1950’s. Instrumental in their design were
the famous lady landscape architect partners Lord and Schryver. These architects
were very popular in their time and contributed to the development of many
Northwest fine gardens.
When
the City of Salem acquired these properties they were in poor repair. There was
not a lot of public money available. Through the progressive efforts of an
increasing number of dedicated volunteers and very cooperative, forward thinking
city officials the gardens and greenhouse and garden structures have been
rehabilitated and improved and maintained. The main group is the “Friends of
Bush’s Pasture Park Gardens”. The friend have expanded and spawned related
groups to care for and improve Deepwood.
Gretchen
showed us many historical photos and old and new blueprints of the garden plans
as well as many before and after shots of both garden areas (in reality,
composed of many gardens). I have lived here most of my life but did not
appreciate the horticultural wealth and the abundance of native wildflowers of
these gardens.
Gretchen
showed us the diversity of garden plans and designs, the hardscape and
plantscape, the effects of overgrowth of original plantings and the corrections
and solutions to return these gardens back to their original beauty and
composition as well as some of the clever modifications necessary to accommodate
the public. It was a great and memorable talk with great photos and
illustrations.
The
meeting was ended by door prize and raffle. Yours truly won a raffle book: “Private
English Gardens and Outhouses” donated by Sharon Leopold. It’s been a long
time since I’ve gotten lucky. Please come to our next meeting featuring Wilbur
Bluhm speaking on Outstanding Landscape and Garden Trees ( or maybe: “Trees,
The Good, The Better, The Best, The Bad and The Ugly”). Perhaps a more
accurate title will appear elsewhere in this newsletter.
Respectfully Submitted
Your former Secretary,
Keith White
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Following the Life of a truss |
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This is a picture story of R.
irroratum |
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Photos— Keith White, Jibberish—editor |
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PJM
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Seed Parent x Pollen Parent:
minus var minus Carolinianum Group x dauricum Sempervirens GroupGrowing Azaleas
Azaleas are relatively pest-free, forgiving and easy to grow plants. Their
cultural needs include:
Moderate
temperatures (USDA cold hardiness zones 6 to 8, minimum -10 to +20° F.),
although many varieties can thrive in much lower temperatures, and others in
much higher temperatures.
High
shade is preferable but some varieties do well in full sun, especially deciduous
varieties. While more sun typically produces more compact plants with more
blooms, the blooms will not last as long.
Slightly
acid soil (pH 5.5-6) is best and is usually found under oak, pine and holly
trees.
A
mulch of pine bark, pine needles or wood chips helps to keep moisture in the
ground, even out changes in the soil temperature, and keep weeds out. An inch or
so around the root zone and a thicker layer between the plants is desirable.
Azaleas
do not like "wet feet". Good drainage is most easily provided by
planting azaleas with the tops of their root balls a few inches above ground
level and mounding the soil up to the plants. This is particularly important
with heavy clay soil.
Azaleas
like moist soil at their roots. This may require supplemental watering through
early fall, at least until plants are established in the ground for a few years.
Adequate water after bloom helps to produce more flower buds for next year. An
infrequent deep soaking is more effective than superficial sprinkling. The
amount of water needed depends on the soil, temperature, humidity, wind and
sunlight. In a dry fall, water heavily after a good frost, before cold weather
sets in.
Established
azaleas do not need fertilizer. To avoid inducing new growth which may be killed
in the winter, do any fertilizing in late winter or early spring; never after
July 1.
To
avoid cutting off next year's flower buds, do major pruning of azaleas soon
after they bloom. Shortening or removal of long slender stems with no side
shoots and cutting out dead wood may be done at any time.
As
needed, a fungicidal spray in the spring as the buds show color will control
petal blight, a fungal disease that appears as discolored dots on the petals and
quickly discolors and collapses the blossoms.
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The ‘Azalea Society of America’ was the source of this information
Maintaining Healthy Rhododendrons and Azaleas in the Landscape
Rhododendrons and azaleas, which are closely related, are among the most popular flowering shrubs in Ohio. In many urban landscapes, these shrubs thrive and have relatively few serious health problems once they are established. However, they do have some "special requirements" that must be met to insure good health. These special conditions match those in areas where rhododendrons and azaleas are native. Rhododendrons and azaleas grow on forest floors in many parts of the world, in shaded habitats, with acidic soils rich in organic matter. Soils are often covered with a surface layer of decaying leaf litter.
Matching these conditions where native rhododendrons and azaleas thrive is the key to their good health in the landscape. Plant in areas with good soil drainage, acid pH and partial shade that are sheltered from direct afternoon sun and winter winds. Some of the more common problems that can occur on rhododendrons and azaleas in Ohio include: iron deficiency, winter injury (burn), black vine weevil, and Phytophthora root rot.
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Iron Deficiency |
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Figure 1 shows the yellowing of rhododendron leaves typical of iron deficiency. The yellowing is between the veins and more severe on younger leaves. This problem generally results from plants growing in soils of improper pH. Rhododendrons must be grown in acidic soil that is high in organic matter. If the pH is above 6.0, soil amendments such as sulfur, iron sulfate or ammonium sulfate must be incorporated into the root area to lower pH. It will be difficult to overcome the deficiency problem in soils high in lime or calcium, even with soil amendments. In such cases, mulch the plant heavily with a good grade of sphagnum peat. Bark mulch mixed with the peat provides a mulch with good aeration and drainage. It also suppresses root rotting organisms. If kept moist, plants will root into this mulch. Use a complete, acid fertilizer that contains iron | ||||||||||||||
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Winter Burn |
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Black Vine Weevil |
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The adult weevils feed on rhododendron leaves producing a C-shaped notching in the leaf margin (Figure 3). These insects can be quite damaging. Most of the damage comes from weevil larvae feeding on the roots. Affected plants lose vigor, and may die eventually. The insecticide Orthene is registered for use on rhododendrons, and it will control black vine weevil adults. The key to control, of course, is to kill the adults early in the season before they lay too many eggs. Begin spraying in late May, followed by two more sprays two weeks apart. Follow instructions on the Orthene label. Refer to OSU Extension Fact Sheet HYG-2016, "Black Vine Weevil," for more detailed information. | ||||||||||||||
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Phytophthora Root Rot (Rhododendron Wilt) |
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This disease is caused by a soil-borne fungus
(Phytophthora spp.). Generally, it is a problem where wet (saturated)
soil conditions occur frequently. Early symptoms of the disease consist of
retarded growth, drooping of foliage (perhaps on one or two branches only) and
yellowing of leaves. Infected roots appear dark and
"mushy." As the disease progresses, a browning discoloration of the
wood may extend upward from the base on affected branches. Plants in
poorly drained soils are very subject to waterlogging which makes them highly
susceptible to this disease. If this occurs, plants may die quickly. Whereas infected plants cannot be cured, root rot may be tolerated by the plant if improvements in soil drainage and aeration are made as soon as possible. Young plants can be lifted and replanted. Before replanting, improve the drainage and aeration of the soil. Use tile drainage or add porous materials in a layer beneath the root zone. Plant in a raised bed and do not mound the soil up around the crown. Mulching with tree bark provides biological control. The mulch must be applied to a depth of two inches and reapplied as it decomposes. If plants cannot be lifted and replanted, try to improve drainage and lessen the occurrence of over watering by redirecting rain runoff, placement of drain tiles, and changes in irrigation programs. If the plants die from root rot, it would be unwise to replant another rhododendron in the site without considerable improvement in the soil conditions. Caroline and English Roseum are rhododendron cultivars with some resistance to this disease. |
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Shelby's Library Corner
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This will be the last set of books
that I will be reviewing in the news letter. I will be |
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Wildflowers of the American West, Rhododendrons and Azaleas in Australia, A Plantsman’s Guide to Rhododendrons, and Practical Plant Breeding. The first book I am going to begin with Wildflowers of the American West: This book is a very helpful guide to wildflowers. It has a short paragraph or story on the flower and where it is located. From Trillium to Iris this book has painted pictures that are beautiful to look at as you glance through this beautiful book. This book was written by Rose Houk. |
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The next book is Rhododendrons and Azaleas in Australia This book was donated by Herb Spady in 2005 and is a very nice book. It has sections on the history, origin, species, hybrids, general care, pests and diseases, propagation, recommended varieties and even Vireya Rhododendrons. This book is very colorful within its pages. They are covered with pictures and line drawings that satisfy your eyes. |
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| The third book is on Practical Plant breeding the title tells you itself. This book describes how characteristics and inherited, and explains in practical detail how new varieties are made. It tells the surprising degree to which garden plants have been, and are being developed. It also says that the gardener who decides to breed plants for him self will find all he needs to guide him. This book was written by W.J.C. Lawrence. | |||
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The next book is A Plantsman’s Guide to Rhododendrons this is an ideal handbook to everyone interested in growing and caring for Rhododendrons even if they’re a weekend gardener or a collector. Everything in the genus is covered and there is even a section of the book that has descriptions of over two hundred rhododendron species and hybrids, with full details of which varieties to choose for any situation. This book was also donated by Herb Spady in 2005 and is waiting to be checked out and put under your care. |
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This is the
last time that I will be bringing any book to the meeting |
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| Happy Gardening | |||
ALice
in Gardenland
Basil Vaerlen, San Francisco, Cal.
An excerpt from the California Chapter Newsletter
 |
The excitement in the
Dell was intense as the Miss Truss Pageant got under way. A mish-mash of Alpine
types stood on the edge of things, nibbling nervously on their stamens, half
envious of their more flamboyant sisters.
Alice found herself wedged in tightly
between Dame Nellie Melba and Pink Pearl.
"I'll never forget," sighed
Dame Nellie, "the year I won." "Nor let us forget either,"
Pink Pearl murmured. "And though we've been a number of fronds for years.
" Don't you mean 'friends'
" Alice suggested
" Good Heavens, no! I hope it
hasn't come to that! No... just good fronds."
Helene Schiffner, a small white
truss, spoke up. "I may not be as florid as some, but I do have class.
Don't you think there's something slightly vulgar about those... er... bosomy
trusses? Strutty and sort of stuck-out..."
"Don't be snide!" Dame
Nellie said, severely, "I always say: Them as has it, has it... ".
" Them as has it, can keep
it," Helene answered. "You'll note, my dear, how pure my color is...
how delicately proportioned my truss is to its leaf size. A connoisseur like
you, I'm sure, wouldn't vote for someone like... well, take that over-blown
hussy over there! Why she's downright brazen with her extruding pistol! In my
day, a blossom was taught to keep her corolla decently around her...er...parts!".
Before she could be answered, a
treble voice of great sweetness started singing in the background:
Isn't she lovely!
Isn't she a dream!
The pride of the genus
Supreme!
"Boo! Boo!" a raucous voice
broke in. "In Mercy's name, who is that?" Alice asked.
"Oh, her!" Pink Pearl
snorted. "Just an old ponticum hybrid...old Ratty Tatty we call her.
She calls herself the Truss Lib. Movement - claims we're not getting equal
opportunity..."
"I heard that!" shouted the
president of the Lib. Movement. "And I object! You just look down on
me because I'm plain. You'll thank me, someday..."
Pink Pearl smirked at her. "I've
always said: If you can't win with Beauty ... try Reason!"
"I demand equal
opportunity!" Miss Lib. shouted. "They call us the King of
Shrubs! Bah! That proves it's a man's world! Why not the Queen of Shrubs or the
Empress of Shrubs, or the Princess of Shrubs..."
"But," Alice interrupted,
"aren't you bi-sexed? Aren't you both..."
"That has nothing to do with
it...Just because we don't have an English word that stands for both! It's time
we found one..."
Alice felt that it would be best to
change the subject. "Oh, what a lovely yellow!" she cried excitedly,
pointing to a macabeanum truss.
" Jaundice!" snorted Dame
Nellie; and dropping her voice to a conspiratorial tone: "And besides,
though don't mention it to anyone...she has scales!"
Alice was amazed. "How in the
world would you know that?"
Dame Nellie blushed. "I don't
know directly, my dear, but . . . I saw the Gardener looking...underneath
her leaves! Dirty old man, if you ask me!"
But Miss Lib. was not to be
distracted. "How would you like to be called the What-You-May-Call-It of
Shrubs! You wouldn't like that, would you?"
"Common creature!" Dame
Nellie retorted. "Just go away...you're just lavender ..."
" Barely good for under
stock," sighed Pink Pearl.
" Up the Understock!"
screamed Miss Lib. "You're a bunch of fuddy-duds! Stop the show! Stop
it!"
" Pay her no mind,"
suggested Dame Nellie.
" You will too pay me some
mind," Miss Lib. shouted. "This show won't go on, if I can help
it!"
A general hullabaloo broke
out...trusses tearing at each other...kicking, biting, snatching, pulling each
other's stamens...Oh, it was a jolly mess!
Alice rushed down a path to get out
of it all. Behind her, above the melee, she heard a tremulous treble voice
singing uncertainly its plaintive song:
Isn't she lovely!
Isn't she a dream!
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| Taken from The Quarterly Bulletin of the |
| American Rhododendron Society |
| October, 1971, Vol. 25 No. |
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As I am sitting here, finalizing the newsletter, while watching the snow falling gently to the ground, I am wondering if somehow we missed spring and summer and are now heading back into winter. Am I having a bad dream and will be awaken to a beautiful spring? I hope so. I think we have had enough snow and cold weather for this year. At least it doesn’t seem to bother the plants as even “Rosa Mundi” has started to bloom. —Editor |
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| I was wondering. Is it Spring yet? | |
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Garden
Advice
By Carol Savonen
Statesman Journal Newspaper
To help home gardeners determine what their acid-loving plants need, John Hart,
soil scientist with the Oregon State University Extension Service, recommends
performing the following strategy: First, give nitrogen or sulfur fertilizer to
the shrub. If your plant doesn’t respond to the nitrogen or sulfur by turning
a healthy green after a few weeks, iron deficiency may be your plant’s
problem.
The most effective way to correct
iron deficiency is by acidifying the soil. Colder and wetter weather, such as in
winter or early spring, is a good time to acidify soil, as reactions in the soil
can take place while plants are least actively growing. But first, be sure that
acidification is necessary. Have the pH of your soil tested, or test it yourself
before you acidify.
To acidify an established tree or
shrub, dig four small foot-deep holes away from the trunk of each shrub or tree.
Dig these holes a foot from the trunk of a shrub, two feet from a small tree,
three feet from a medium tree and just inside the drip line of a larger tree.
You might use a soil auger or bulb
planter to help make these small holes deep enough. Add 1/2 cup elemental sulfur
(S), phosphoric acid or sulfuric acid per plant total, divided equally between
each of the four holes. Or add iron sulfate or iron chelate to your soil.
Wait until next spring or summer to
gauge the plant’s response before you apply any more acid, Hart warned. Again,
check your soil pH before proceeding.
Iron can be sprayed directly on the
leaves in addition to a soil acidification program if a severe iron deficiency
exists. Leaf (foliar) iron sprays usually are short lived and need to be applied
every other week during rapid growth.
The OSU Extension Service has a guide
available online called “Acidifying Soil for Blueberries and Ornamental Plants
in the Yard and Garden West of the Cascade Mountain Range in Oregon and
Washington” (EC 1560-E). It explains how to modify soil pH to ensure that your
rhodies, blueberries and other acid-loving plants thrive in your garden.
Download it at: http://extension.oregon-state.edu/catalog/pdf/ec/ec160-e.pdf
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Willamette Chapter Officers |
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| President | Wally Reed | 503-588-3666 | Newsletter: | ||||||
| Vice President: | Carol Howard | 971-223-5425 | Editor: | Dick Lundin | 503-585-8439 | ||||
| Programs Chair: | Dr. Keith White | 503-363-2815 | Printing: | Steve Krasik | |||||
| Secretary: | Mary Crofts | 503-838-4122 | Mailing: | Lundins | 503-585-843 | ||||
| Treasurer: | Helen Malby | 503-393-1298 | Board Members: | ||||||
| Librarian: | Shelby Lundin | 503-585-8439 | Sharon Leopold | 503-364-9313 | |||||
| Bob Grasing | 503-585-4478 | ||||||||
| Web Site | Herb Spady | 503-874-1445 | Eldo Murphy | 503-363-0385 | |||||
| Past President: | Chuck Dehn | 503-362-9217 | |||||||
